Sunday, August 26, 2012

Exploring the fjord




ANOTHER day in the Arctic Circle and there’s more ice.

I'm sure I will eventually tire of gazing out the window to see gigantic icebergs floating in the water, but that hasn't happened yet.

During lunch I looked up to see a segment of ice that was so big, and so close to the port side of our ice-breaking ship, that it blocked the sun and completely filled the windows.

Some icebergs are perfectly white, with the sides shaped by the wind that howls across these waters during an Arctic gale, while others are a bit grubby and covered with a fine layer of grey silt collected when the block slid down the side of the glacier.

Then there are some icebergs that are almost black, and these are the blocks that have become unstable after a quick melt and rolled to expose the side that scraped against the glacier's bedrock bottom during the long and slow journey to the sea.



Our morning was spent in Karrat Fjord, an inlet a night's sailing from Ilulissat, and after breakfast the passengers ventured onto the decks to look at the jagged peaks that form the sides of this dramatic natural wonder.

As the Clipper Adventurer swung on its anchor we were able to look across the floating ice to the mountains in the distance, and we were close enough to see the start of the glacier where these bergs started life many years ago.

There was one view that kept catching my eye and I think I must have snapped a dozen photos trying to capture the subtle colours of the Arctic landscape.


The scene was picture perfect with a big chunk of ice floating in the water behind the ship, and beyond that a steep waterside slope just high enough to reveal another tall peak in the distance almost surrounded by an heavy August fog.

After a few hours anchored in Karrat Fjord we headed back towards open water bound for the Davis Strait and our crossing west from Greenland to Canada, and ice bergs the size of mountains accompanied our journey until I went to bed close to midnight when the sun was still just above the horizon.